Tantuni comes from Mersin on the Mediterranean coast, where it appeared in the 1960s before finding a second home in Istanbul. Small cubes of beef or lamb are cooked fast on a wide, flat iron griddle with cumin, red pepper flakes, and each shop's own spice mix, then rolled in thin lavash bread. The cooking is loud and quick. The spatula clatters against the griddle in a steady rhythm, and you can usually hear a good tantuni shop before you see it. The result is cheap, portable, and meant to be eaten on the spot.

Istanbul's cooking traces back to the Ottoman palace kitchens. Many recipes have stayed in the same families for generations, and the techniques take years to learn. Eating here is a practical introduction to the city.

Anyone curious about Turkish cooking will eat well here. The dishes follow Ottoman-era recipes, and most portions suit sharing.

First-time visitors and solo travelers both manage easily here. The area is walkable, and staff at most sites are used to tourists.

Food markets nearby sell spices, cheese, and dried fruit. Waterfront restaurants along the Bosphorus have views across the strait to the Asian side.

Nearby bazaars sell Turkish crafts and souvenirs. Tea houses in the side streets are a good place to rest between sights.