Kumpir starts with an enormous baked potato, roughly the size of a football. The flesh is scooped out, mixed with butter, cheese, and sometimes mayonnaise until creamy, then piled back into the skin. Then comes the toppings bar: pickles, corn, Russian salad, sausages, and much more, with most stands offering dozens of choices. The modern kumpir business grew up on the Ortaköy waterfront in the 1990s, and the colorful results later made it a social media favorite. One potato is a full meal, so come hungry.

Istanbul's cooking traces back to the Ottoman palace kitchens. Many recipes have stayed in the same families for generations, and the techniques take years to learn. Eating here is a practical introduction to the city.

Anyone curious about Turkish cooking will eat well here. The dishes follow Ottoman-era recipes, and most portions suit sharing.

First-time visitors and solo travelers both manage easily here. The area is walkable, and staff at most sites are used to tourists.

Food markets nearby sell spices, cheese, and dried fruit. Waterfront restaurants along the Bosphorus have views across the strait to the Asian side.

Nearby bazaars sell Turkish crafts and souvenirs. Tea houses in the side streets are a good place to rest between sights.