Turkish white bean stew, a working-class staple with palace origins
Turkish white bean stew, a working-class staple with palace origins
Kuru fasulye is Turkish white bean stew, one of the oldest staples in the national kitchen. The beans arrived in Ottoman lands from the New World in the 16th century and were cooked first in palace kitchens before the dish spread to Istanbul's working classes. It has stayed cheap and popular ever since, eaten by everyone regardless of income. A handful of restaurants in Karaköy, Süleymaniye, and Üsküdar have served little else for generations, usually with rice pilaf, pickles, and a glass of ayran on the side.


Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı - operating since 1940 by the same family
Süleymaniyeli Kurufasulyeci - serving since 1924 opposite the mosque
Çömlek Kuru Fasulye in Üsküdar with Çamlıca Hill views
Traditional serving with rice pilaf and Ottoman-style ayran glasses
Istanbul's cooking traces back to the Ottoman palace kitchens. Many recipes have stayed in the same families for generations, and the techniques take years to learn. Eating here is a practical introduction to the city.
Anyone curious about Turkish cooking will eat well here. The dishes follow Ottoman-era recipes, and most portions suit sharing.
First-time visitors and solo travelers both manage easily here. The area is walkable, and staff at most sites are used to tourists.
Istanbul is the only major city that sits on two continents. The European side holds most of the historic center, while the Asian side is largely residential. Ferries connect the two in about 20 minutes.
The city has been inhabited for over 2,500 years and was the capital of the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires. Byzantine mosaics and Ottoman calligraphy often share the same building, and many old structures are still in daily use.
Carpet weavers and Turkish delight makers still use old techniques. Some workshops let visitors watch the work, and a few offer short demonstrations. Ask before taking photos.
Best served at lunch time between 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM
Try with rice, pickles, and frothy ayran for the complete experience
Choose restaurants frequently visited by locals for authentic flavors
Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı in Karaköy, open since 1940, is worth seeking out
Food markets nearby sell spices, cheese, and dried fruit. Waterfront restaurants along the Bosphorus have views across the strait to the Asian side.
Nearby bazaars sell Turkish crafts and souvenirs. Tea houses in the side streets are a good place to rest between sights.
Discover tours and activities for Taste Ottoman Heritage: Kuru Fasulye
Duration
1-2 hours
Best Time
Lunch time (11:00 AM - 2:00 PM)
Location
Karaköy, Süleymaniye, Üsküdar