From October through March, chestnut carts appear on Istanbul's streets: small stands with beds of glowing coals and paper bags of roasted kestane. The vendors have been part of the city's winters for centuries, and the smell of roasting chestnuts carries down the block before you see the cart. A hot bag costs little, warms your hands, and is easiest to peel while the shells are still warm. Look for a vendor with active coals and a steady line of regulars; that is where the chestnuts are freshest.

Istanbul's cooking traces back to the Ottoman palace kitchens. Many recipes have stayed in the same families for generations, and the techniques take years to learn. Eating here is a practical introduction to the city.

Anyone curious about Turkish cooking will eat well here. The dishes follow Ottoman-era recipes, and most portions suit sharing.

First-time visitors and solo travelers both manage easily here. The area is walkable, and staff at most sites are used to tourists.

Food markets nearby sell spices, cheese, and dried fruit. Waterfront restaurants along the Bosphorus have views across the strait to the Asian side.

Nearby bazaars sell Turkish crafts and souvenirs. Tea houses in the side streets are a good place to rest between sights.