Taste Ottoman Heritage: Kuru Fasulye
Turkish white bean stew, a working-class staple with palace origins
Kuru fasulye is Turkish white bean stew, one of the oldest staples in the national kitchen. The beans arrived in Ottoman lands from the New World in the 16th century, and the dish became a long-standing Istanbul favourite, loved by workers and office lunchers alike. It has stayed cheap and popular ever since, eaten by everyone regardless of income. A handful of restaurants in Karaköy, Süleymaniye, and Üsküdar have served little else for generations, usually with rice pilaf, pickles, and a glass of ayran on the side.
Kuru fasulye is a lunch dish. The classic bean houses open around midday and some close in the late afternoon once the pot is empty.
What it is
- The stew: white beans slowly cooked with tomato paste, onion and butter or olive oil, sometimes with pastırma or meat.
- The classic plate: served with buttery rice pilaf (pilav), pickles (turşu) and a glass of ayran.
- A long history: beans arrived in Ottoman lands from the Americas and became an everyday favourite for rich and poor alike.
Where to try it
- Süleymaniye: the bean houses opposite the Süleymaniye Mosque are the most famous, a perfect lunch after visiting the mosque.
- Karaköy and Üsküdar: long-running family restaurants still serve little else.
- Esnaf lokantası: almost every tradesmen’s restaurant has kuru fasulye on the menu at lunchtime.
Tips
- Mix a spoon of pilav into the beans, as locals do.
- Add chilli flakes from the table if you like it spicy.
- It is filling and cheap: a great budget lunch.
More Istanbul street food
Hungry for more? See the Istanbul guide for more dishes, or explore the food streets of Kadıköy. A guided food tour is the easiest way to taste many dishes in one afternoon.
Kuru Fasulye: frequently asked questions
What is kuru fasulye?
A Turkish stew of dried white beans cooked with tomato, onion and butter or olive oil, usually eaten with rice pilaf and pickles.
Is kuru fasulye vegetarian?
Often, but not always. Some places add meat or pastırma, so ask before ordering.
Where can I eat kuru fasulye in Istanbul?
The bean restaurants near the Süleymaniye Mosque are the best known, and you’ll find it in most traditional lunch restaurants (esnaf lokantası).
Book tours & tickets
🎟️ See Istanbul food tours →Free cancellation on most tours · secure booking with GetYourGuide
Photos: E4024, CC BY-SA 4.0; Miansari66, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
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